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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning names. However, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the family completely astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest place earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary achievement.